Friday, November 10, 2006

One bottle of ketchup, an Eid, a bazaar, and a wedding

Another entry on life in Dushanbe. The rain has finally arrived and its become cold and drizzly, much like Seattle actually. Sonja completed half her thesis (rough draft, that is) and is back to coaxing Nasiba into translating more interviews and songs for her next section. In Andy-news, a bottle of actual Heinz ketchup was discovered in the local supermarket! It somehow dissappeared within about three or four days.
For Eid (celebration at the end of Ramadan), everyone visits their friends and family and eats a lot of sweets. We went with our friend Aya first to her neighbor's house and then to our friend Safina's house. There was a huge spread of food at both places, mostly sweets but also some sambusas, and fried bread, along with the homemade halvah, cakes, cookies, and other shireen-i.
A photo of Sonja and Safina,

and one of the spread!

We also recently headed out to the mega-shopping district of Dushanbe (Karavan Bazaar) to get some presents and some warm clothes. It was actually too warm that day and also too crowded but we found a few things. The best part of the outing was finding a sweet little cafe up above the crowds with open windows, a cool breeze, and a good osh (Tajik rice dish with carrots, onions, and garbonzos).
Some shots of the bazaar:


And, in the latest news, last night we attended a double wedding. Sonja actually met the two grooms in a costume shop as they were buying traditional Tajiki clothes to wear for the last half of their wedding (the first half they wore white dresses and suits). They were very insistent that we attend the wedding, surely because of our foreign status. Also because of the foreign status, they insisted Sonja make a speech at the wedding. She spent half the night fretting about it and trying to compose something in Tajik. She did do it in Tajik and, for the most part, it suceeded quite well! However, on the way home, she realized that instead of saying at the end "I will finish now because I only speak a little Tajik," she said, "I will be finished now (meaning I will die now) because I only speak a little Tajik!" We were laughing the whole rest of the way home! Surely, many of the wedding guests also got a good laugh out of it. We got a great photo with the brides and grooms since they insisted we take one with them (they sit on a raised platform and we would have both been way too shy to venture up there with them if they hadn't insisted on it). Tajik brides rarely raise their eyes from the ground and bow from the waist every three minutes or so. (They don't usually look as if they are enjoying themselves.)
We got a phone call from our landlord today congratulating us for being on TV. Apparently the wedding, or some part of it, aired on Tajik television! Day by day, Andy and Sonja are becoming famous in Dushanbe. Our dance and drum teachers are also conspiring to get us on television, Andy playing Kulobi rhythms on tavlak and doira (and maybe a little lapchang/mouth harp) and Sonja dancing Kulobi style.
The election results for Tajikistan are in! President Rahmonov has been re-elected by a narrow margin of 76%!

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