Sunday, August 27, 2006


The road to Murgab was long and bumpy, especially in the Russian jeep we hired. To make matters worse, a couple hours into the trip, Andy's old friends, the stomach bacteria, decided to pay him a visit. Needless to say, eight hours later, when we reached the guesthouse in Murgab, Andy was curled up in the fetal position in the back of the jeep. We were hoping to stay in a yurt becasue we heard there were many in Murgab . . . and there are, but not in the "center" or city. They're all in the open landscape in the summer, occupied by semi-nomadic yak herders. The ACTED guesthouse did us well, though. Sonja was more than pleased when she woke up to a nice hot bowl of "sheer berenj," a hot rice and milk breakfast dish (Andy stomached about two spoonfuls). In the morning we went to the bazaar, where we bought some hats (the local population wears some great hats). Meanwhile, Uvaido was busy setting up a show for us at the local "cultural club." So, in the afternoon, we headed over to the theatre where we saw a variety show of national Kyrgyz, Badakhshani, and "modern" music and dance. The next morning, we headed out early for the 10 hour drive back to Khorog. Along the way, we pulled over and visited a real yurt and were invited in for tea and delicious hommade yogurt . . . of course we HAD to stop at the hot springs in Jalandi on the way back. It just would be right if we didn't.


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